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Ise-Shima Ama Divers: Lunch With Japan’s Last Free-Diving Women & the One-Wish Shrine
Culture & History

Ise-Shima Ama Divers: Lunch With Japan’s Last Free-Diving Women & the One-Wish Shrine

The Shima Peninsula south of Ise is home to the world’s largest remaining community of ama — women…

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Ise Jingu the Local Way: Katamairi, Dawn Pilgrimages & the Merchant Quarter Nobody Sees
Culture & History

Ise Jingu the Local Way: Katamairi, Dawn Pilgrimages & the Merchant Quarter Nobody Sees

Ise Jingu is Japan’s most sacred Shinto site — 125 shrines centered on the Inner Shrine (Naiku) and…

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Tokyo’s Forest Walk | Shinjuku Gyoen, Meiji Shrine & Yoyogi Park in One Route
Destinations

Tokyo’s Forest Walk | Shinjuku Gyoen, Meiji Shrine & Yoyogi Park in One Route

Shinjuku, Yoyogi, and Harajuku read as three separate destinations on the map, but they are stitched together by…

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Walk Ueno to Nippori Through Yanesen | Tokyo’s Most Historic Shitamachi Stroll
Culture & History

Walk Ueno to Nippori Through Yanesen | Tokyo’s Most Historic Shitamachi Stroll

This route links Ueno, Yanaka, Nezu, Sendagi, and Nippori — the belt of high ground northwest of Ueno…

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Shibuya Stream to Daikanyama: The New Riverside Walk Locals Love
Destinations

Shibuya Stream to Daikanyama: The New Riverside Walk Locals Love

For decades the Shibuya River south of the station ran hidden under concrete and neglect — a drainage…

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Omoide Yokocho (‘Memory Lane’): Eating Yakitori in Shinjuku’s Tiny Alley
Destinations

Omoide Yokocho (‘Memory Lane’): Eating Yakitori in Shinjuku’s Tiny Alley

Omoide Yokocho — “Memory Lane,” though everyone also knows its ruder postwar nickname — is a pair of…

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Golden Gai: How to Actually Drink in Shinjuku’s 200-Bar Maze
Destinations

Golden Gai: How to Actually Drink in Shinjuku’s 200-Bar Maze

Golden Gai is a preserved scrap of postwar Shinjuku: six pedestrian alleys holding roughly 280 bars, most seating…

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Shinjuku Kabukicho at Night: A Foreigner’s Safety Guide
Destinations

Shinjuku Kabukicho at Night: A Foreigner’s Safety Guide

Kabukicho, the neon maze northeast of Shinjuku Station, is routinely called Japan’s largest entertainment district and just as…

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Omotesando at Dawn: What Tokyo’s Most Beautiful Avenue Looks Like at 6am
Culture & History

Omotesando at Dawn: What Tokyo’s Most Beautiful Avenue Looks Like at 6am

Omotesando at midday is a procession — flagship stores, tour groups, influencers arranging themselves against Herzog & de…

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